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Chapter summary The Ashta Vinayaka : The Ashta Vinayaka temples
The Ashta Vinayaka, or Eight Ganesh, are one of the most important pilgrimage to Ganesh temples in India.
All of them are located in the Pune area (look at the map) and people say that the pilgrimage must be carried out as follows : first Morgaon,
then Pali, Mahad, Theur, Lenyadri, Ozhar, Ranjangaon, Siddhatek. These places are described below in the same order.
Usually, this pilgrimage (yatra) is organized from Pune. Although each location can be reached by bus, several days
would be required to carry out the circuit. Therefore, it's more costly but more convenient to rent a car in Pune and
to visit the eight places within two days only (700 km). The first day, one will visit Theur, Morgaon,
Siddhatek, then go to Lenyadri to spend the night. On the second day, one will visit Lenyadri, Ozhar, Pali et Mahad.
Another possibility is to proceed to Pali and Mahad from Mumbay.
Morgaon | Pali |
Mahad | Theur
Lenyadri | Ozhar |
Ranjangaon | Siddhatek
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Morgaon is situated on the banks of river Karha in Baramati Taluka (Pune District). People say that that
place shape looks like a peacock and that there were many peacocks in ancient times : for that reason, the location
is called "Morgaon". This village is only at 56 kms from Pune and can be easily reached by bus or railway.
Morgaon enshrines Ganapati as Mayureshwar (Moresh) or the peacock rider, who slew the demon Sindhu in response to pleas
from the Gods.
The mûrti
The deity Moreshwara is in sitting posture, facing east with trunk turning left and smeared with vermillion mixed in oil. Diamonds are embedded in its eyes and navel, on its head is the Nagaraja hood. On both sides of the mûrti, there are brass statues of His two wives, Siddhi and Buddhi. In front, are standing Mushaka (Rat) and Mayura (Peacock). It is said that doing Abhishek on "Moreshwar", all desires are fulfilled. Mayureshwar's armour had been cast off in 1788 and 1822 A.D. People believe that the original mûrti, created by God Brahma, was made up of sand, iron and diamond and would stay behind the present statue.
The temple
The main temple, facing north, is located in the village centreand looks like a small fortress, similar to a fortified mosque. The temple complex comprises of a dome, surrounded by a 17 meters high enclosure and decked with four pillars in each corner. The main temple was built with a particuler black stone, during the Bahmani period, in a typical Moghul style. It has four gates. In the eastern gate stays Lakshminarayana, giver of Dharma. In the southern gate, are Parvati and Shankara, givers of Artha. Then comes yhe western gate where Rati and Kama resides. Lastly, in the northern gate one can find Mahivaraha (Earth and Sun). In the eight corners, there are eight statues of Ganapati called Ekadanta, Mahodara, Gajanana, Lambodar, Vikata, Vigharâja, Dhumravarna and Vakratunda. In the temple complex there are trees of Shani, Mandar and Tarati (Kalpavriksha). While going towards the temple, a huge Deep Mala (oil lamp pillar) will be seen first. In front of it is Nagarkhana (where kettledrums are kept). Near Nagarkhana, there is a mouse made up of black stone. On climbing the steps, you will see a big Nandi made up of black stone facing Mayureshwar. This is the only Ashtavinayaka temple with a Nandi. The question is how Nandi can stay in front of Ganapati instead of Lord Shiva ? Following legend is the answer to this. Years ago, Nandi statue was carried on a cart for its consecration in front of a nearby Shivalaya temple. However, the cart broke in front of Mayureshwara's temple. People tried their best to shift Nandi but all in vain. The man carrying the cart had omen in the night, Nandi saying, "I want to stay before Mayureshwar only". Thus Nandi - Maharaj sat before Mayureshwara for ever.
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In the Sudhagad taluka of Raigad district, near the village Nagothane, Shri Ballaleshwar is situated in the Village Pali
at a distance of 111 kms from Pune. Regular bus services are available from Mumbai and Pune.
Among the Astavinayaka, Ballal Vinayak at Pali is associated with a legend where Ganapati is said to have come to the aid of a young lad, who was a fervent devotee of Ganapati and is famous by his devotee's name. This place is very famous and spiritually awakened.
The legend
In Krita Yuga, there was a staunch child devotee of Ganapati called Ballal living in village Pali of country Sindhu. He was the son of a businessman called Kalyan and his wife Indumati. From childhood, Ballal was highly addicted to worshipping Shri Ganesh. Along with other children, he used to worship with small stones being treated as Gods. Once, the children went outside the village and saw a big stone. At the instance of Ballal, the children treated the stone as Ganapati and started worshipping. All of them got so engrossed that they forgot about hunger and thirst or about day or night. Their parents were waiting for the children at home. When the children did not return on time, they all went to Kalyan's house and complained about Ballal as he was the leader of all the children. Kalyan seth become furious. He took a stick and went out. He saw children listening Ganesh purana outside the village. With anger gone into his head, he broke the small temples build by the children and started chasing them. Ballal's companion fled away, but Ballal was caught by his father as he was submerged in meditation. He was beaten till blood started flowing from his body. His father tied him to a tree, then smashed all pooja materials collected by the children and threw away the big stone which children had treated as Ganapati. "Let me see which God protects you now", said the father and he returned home. Ballal started entreating Vinayaka. He was not concerned about his being beaten up or being tied to the tree. But he became furious seeing the temple smashed and idols thrown away. Though he was affected by pain, hunger and thirst, he kept on chanting the name of Gajanana till he fainted. Lord Ganapati was moved by the child's devotion and He appeared in the form of a Brahmin before Ballal and touched him. Immediately, thirst and hunger vanished, wounds were healed and Ballal felt a new vigour moving in his body. He prostrated before the Brahmin whom he recognised as Gajanan and worshipped him. Ganapati told him to ask for a boon. Ballal said "Let me have unshaken devotion towards you. You must stay at this place and remove the miseries of the people who come to you". Ganesh said :"I shall ever remain here in my part form; I will take your name before mine and be called as Ballal Vinayak". Then, he embraced Ballal and vanished into a nearby stone. That stone statue is called Ballaleshwar. The stone idol which Kalyan Vaishya threw away is also called as Dhundi Vinayak. This is a swayambhu Mūrti. He is worshipped before Ballaleshwar is worshipped.
The mûrti
The image of Vinayak is sitting on a stone throne, facing east; its trunk is left turned. Diamonds are embedded in the eyes and navel. The background is made of silver where one finds Riddhi and Siddhi waving chamaras. Among Ashtavinayaka, Ballaleshwar is the only Vinayak who is famous by his devotee's name and who is dressed up as Brahmin.
The temple
Original wooden temple was renovated and a new stone temple was built in 1760 A.D. Temple complex is tiled and it encircles two lakes. Shape of the stone temple is in the form of letter "shri" facing east. During Dakshinayan, at sun rise, the sun rays falls exactly on the Vinayaka. There are two sanctums. People believe that temple walls are made quite strong by mixing lead with cement.
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The Mahad village is situated in Khalapur taluka (Raigad District) at 63 kms from Mumbay, on the
Mumbai-Pune railway line. Mahad is at a distance of 24 kms from Karjat and 6 kms from Khopoli. Regular buses are easily
available from Khopoli and Karjat. Mahad is surrounded by picturesque surroundings,
especially in the monsoon season. Population is very few around. Mahad enshrines Varadvinayak (the bestower of boons),
in commemoration of a legend.
The legend
In an ancient period there was a great king, Bhima of Kudinyapur. He had no children. He and his wife came to a forest for penance; there, they met Sage Vishwamitra who gave the king the Ekashar Gajanana Mantra to get a child. On chanting the mantra, the king got a son, who was named Rukmaganda. He was a very beautiful boy, with a golden luster and an excellent character. Later on, Rukmanganda went once to forest for hunting. Getting thirsty and tired, he went to the nearby hermitage of Rishi Vachaknavi. Rishi's wife became enamoured by the prince's beauty and asked him to fulfil her desire. But the prince had a good morality and he flatly refused. After he left, Mukunda became lovesick. Knowing her plight, King Indra took the form of Rukmaganda and had pleasure with her. Mukunda became pregnant and gave birth to a son, who she named Gritsamada. Later, on knowing truth, Gritsamada cursed his mother to become a thorny plant. At the same time, Mukunda cursed the boy that a cruel rakshas (demon) would born from him. Then, there was a voice from heaven telling that Gritsamada is Indra's son. Both mother and son were shocked. Mukunda was converted to plant. Gritsamada, very ashamed, went to a forest called Pushpak to perform penance. Shri Ganesh was satisfied and agreed to grant him boons. He told the boy that he would get a brave son who cannot be defeated by anybody other than Shankara Shiva. In addition, Gritsamada asked for the forest to become holy. Devotees get attainment of their aims on that place. He urged Ganapati to stay there permanently and asked for knowledge of Brahma. The forest is called Bhadraka today. Gritsamada built a temple there and the idol installed there is called Varadavinayaka. It is said that if the coconut received as prasad during Maghi Chaturthi is consumed, one will be blessed with a son. Hence, there is heavy rush during Maghi Utsav.
The mûrti
It was found by Shree Dhondu Paudkar in 1960 A.D. in a lake. It was outside the sanctum of the temple. As the idol was in bad weather condition, temple trustees immersed it and consecrated a new one inside the sanctum. This was objected by few and a suit was filed in the district court. Thus, nowadays, two idols can be seen one inside and one outside the sanctum. One is smeared in vermillion in sitting position with the trunk turned left and the other is made of white marble with trunk turned to right.
The temple
Varadvinayaka's temple was built by Peshwa Sardar Ramji Mahadev Biwalkar and he gifted this to the village. The temple looks like a house with a tiled roof. There is a Gomukh towards north with Holy water coming out of it. A small lake lies at the west. The temple is only 2.5 meters long and 2.5 meters broad. Dome is 8 meters high with a golden pinnacle. The sanctum of the temple, made up of stone and surrounded by beautiful elephant carvings, houses the mûrti.
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Theur is located at a distance of 25kms from Pune in Haveli Taluka (Pune District), at the confluence of the Mula, Mutha and Bhima rivers. Sugarcane is cultivated on a large scale in that region. Theur is the nearest Astavinayak from Pune. Facility of frequent buses makes the approach of this place very easy. Its only at 3 kms from Loni.
Chintamani Vinayak relates to the legend of Kapila Muni and the Chintamani gem.
The legend
Long time back, king Abhijeet and his wife queen Gunavati performed penances for several years on the advice of Sage Vaishampayan. So, they got a son called Gana who later on became popular as "Ganarâja". Ganarâja was as furious as he was brave and valorous. Once, after a hunting expedition, he came to Kapila Rishi's Ashram for taking rest. Sage Kapila fed the entire retinue with tastiest food, obtained thanks to a jewel called Chintamani. The jewel Chintamani was given to the Sage by king of Gods Indra. Being impressed by the power of the jewel, greedy Ganarâja asked Sage Kapila to give it to him. When Kapila refused, Ganarâja took away the Chintamani by force. Sage Kapila was sorely disappointed. Goddess Durga adviced Kapila to worship Lord Ganesh. Being happy with Kapila's worship, Lord Ganesh promised him to return back the jewel. Ganesh and Ganarâja had a fierced battle near tree Kadamba. Lord Ganesh killed Ganarâja with his axe. Thus Sage Kapila got his Jewel and adorned Ganesh with Chintamani. Since then, Lord Ganesh is called Chintamani and as these incidents took place below a Kadamba tree, the village around was called Kadamba Thirtha.
The mûrti
The god image faces east. It is a swayambhu (self emanated) one and has a left side trunk. There are carbuncle and diamonds in Vinayaka eyes.
The temple
The main archway of the temple faces north. Temple mandapa is made up of wood and there is a small fountain made up of black stone in it. The large temple courtyard is paved. A huge bell is a particular local attraction. The temple was built by Dharanidhar Maharaj Dev in the family of Morya Gosavi. The hall of the temple was built 100 years later by Madhavrao Peshva.
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Lenyadri is situated on the North-West bank of river Kukadi, at 94 kms from Pune. Nearby, convenient railway stations are Pune and Talegaon. Buses do also provide easy approach to the place.
Lenyadri is the only place among Astavinayaka places,which is situated on a mountain, in the vicinity of famous buddhist caves. Girijâtmaja Vinayaka is enshrined here : He is believed to be a manifestation of Ganapati as an infant.
The legend
With a desire of having Vinayak as her son, Parvati performed penance for 12 years in the caves of Lenyadri. Ganapati was pleased and gave her the boon she wanted . On one Bhadrapada Shudh Chaturthi, Parvati scrapped the scraf from her body, mixed it with oil and ointment and formed an idol of Ganesh. She was performing pooja of that idol, suddenly the idol became alive and told Parvati that as desired by her he has taken Avatar in her house. On 11th day he was named Ganesh meaning a person who keeps three qualities Satva, Raja and Tama under control. Lord Shiv Shankar gave him boon that whosoever remembers Ganesh before starting a work, will successfully complete the work. Ganesh grew up for 15 years at Lenyadri. Demon king Sindhu who knew that his death is in the hands of Ganesh, sent demons like Krur, Balasur, Vyomasur, Kshemma, Kushal etc. to kill Ganesh on Lenyadri. Instead Ganesh killed all these demons in his childhood. Ganapati also performed many Balleelas in this place. Hence Lenyadri is considered holy place .At the age of six, Vishwakarma worshipped Ganesh and endowes him with Paasa (noose), Parasu (axe), Ankush (hook) and Kamal (Lotus). Parvati's second name is Girija, her Aatmaj means son Ganesh is therefore called as Girijatmaj.
The mûrti
Girijatmaja's murti faces east. Parvati consecrated Ganesh it in the cave where in she had performed penances. This is not a separate and distinct statue. It has been carved on a stone wall of the cave. Previously, the God was covered with an armour. Now, since the armour is fallen, Girijatmaj's image with neck turned to left side can be seen. As such, only one eye can be seen. In this small sanctum, anybody can perform Girijatmaj's pooja on its own.
The temple
Out of 18 Buddhist caves on mountain, Girijatmaj Vinayak's temple is in the eighth cave. These caves are also called Ganesh caves. The entire temple is carved out of single stone and is facing south. In front of the main mandir, there is a huge Sabhamandap (Hall) which is nearly 18 meters long and about 17 meters broad and, surprisingly, there is no any single pillar in that Sabhamandap. It has 18 small meditation rooms. Shri Girijatmaja's abode is the central one. The sabhamandap, about 2 meters high, has six stone pillars decorated with cow, elephant, etc. carvings.
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In Junnar taluka of Pune district, Ozar is at a distance of 12 kms from Narayangaon and 85 kms from Pune. There are
regular bus services from Shivajinagar bus stand of Pune. Vigneshwara at Ozar is regarded as the slayer of the demon
Vighnâsura.
The legend
The King of Hemavati, Shri Abhinandana once performed a great sacrifice. Indra thought that this sacrifice if completed would deprive him of his post. Hence, he ordered Kala (time) to create obstacles in the sacrifice and then destroyed it. The fierce looking Kala not only destroyed that sacrifice but also other sacrifices and created obstacles for Sages and others. Hence people called him Vighna. Slowly all vedic rites were reduced and dharma disappeared from earth. Then all Gods worshipped Gajanana and requested him to save the world from Vighneshvar. Then Ganapati took his Avatar as the son of Sage Parshva and his wife Dîpavatsala. Gods headed by Lord Shiva came to Parshva and requested him to relieve Ganapati for having a war with Vighnâsura. Sage Parshva was reluctant, but Ganapati convinced him and with his permission proceeded to the Asura's abode. He sent his Ankush (Hook) which caught hold of Vighnâsura and brought him before Gods. But the Asura assumed many forms like cyclones, flood, fire, etc. Vinayaka destroyed all such mayas (illusions). Finally, when he found that his power and tactics will not succeed, Vighnâsura fell at the feet of Ganapati and asked for refuge. He requested that Ganapati should take his name along with his own. Vinayaka accepted his request and hence is called as Vighneshvara or Vighnarâja.
The mûrti
The image of Vigneshvar Vinayak, faces east and trunk turned towards left. It's smeared in vermillion mixed with oil, has two emerald studded eyes and a diamond on his forehead and in the navel. On the two sides are brass idols of Riddhi and Siddhi.
The temple
Vighneshvara's temple facing east is surrounded on four sides by a protective stone wall. At the entrance, there are two Deep-Malas (stone pillars for oil lamps) and two huge Dvarapala, the door guards. The main temple has two mandapas, one with statue of Dhundiraj and the other has an idol of rat in running position made in white marble. Mûrtis Panchayatan (Sun, Shiva, Vishnu, Goddess, Ganapati) are situated in four corners of the sanctum. Temple has a golden dome and pinnacle.
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Ranjangaon is located on the Pune-Ahmednagar Highway at a distance of 50 kms only from Pune. It's
easy to approach thanks to frequent bus services.
Mahaganapati at Ranjangaon is believed to have come to the aid of Shiva in destroying the citadels of the demon Tripurasura.
The legend
This is a story of Treta Yuga. There was a great and intelligent Sage Gritsamada. Once, Rishi Gritsamada got a very big cough. From that, came alive a reddish child. His ambition was to conquer the three worlds and also to defeat Indra. To turn his mind towards devotion, Rishi Gritsamada told him to worship Ganesh. The child chanted Mantra given by Gritsamada for years. Penance of the child pleased Ganesh and he offered the child boons saying "Only Lord Shivshankara will be able to defeat you, I give you three cities made of iron, gold and silver. As long as they are, there you can not be defeated by anyone. You will be called Tripura. All your desires will be fulfilled. And through one arrow from Shankara all your three cities will be destroyed". Tripura came back and defeated all Kings on earth and all Gods of heaven. He had two sons. He gave kingdom of Brahmaloka (Lord Brahma's abode) to one son and Vishnulok (Lord Vishnu's abode) to another son. Narada adviced grief-stricken Gods to worship Lord Ganesh to get rid of the calamity. Lord Ganapati getting contented with prayers of all Gods promised to bring about Tripura's defeat through Shankara's hands. Then Lord Ganpati in the guise of Brahmin went to Tripura's abode and told him :"O king! I have mastery over 64 arts. So I am called as "Kaladhar". I have come to meet you from far hearing your brave stories". Tripurasur replied : "Hey, Kaladhar, you show me your art, if I am pleased, I will give away my life also'. Kaladhar said :"O King, I will give you three aeroplanes. You can go anywhere in the world by this planes. You will get anything you desire. Except Lord Mahadev, nobody can destroy these planes". Tripurasur on being pleased asked Kaladhar to demand anything in the world. Kaladhar demanded idol of Chintamani which was in the possession of Lord Shankar. Shiv Shankara refused to give it to Tripurasur and a war ensued between Shiv Shankara and Tripurasur. All gods started off for the war in a hurry forgetting to worship Ganesh before leaving. Therefore, the Gods lost the battle and Tripurasur found the idol of Chintamani. While returning back to his kingdom, Chintamani suddenly disappeared from the hands of Tripurasur. Thinking it to be ill omen, he returned back with a heavy heart. Sage Narada told Shankara the true reason of defeat of not worshipping Ganesh before beginning the war. Lord Shankara on getting convinced went to Dandakaranya. He performed Pranayam and chanted six letters Mantra of Ganapati. Ganapati emerged at that time from his face with a peculiar form. He had five faces, ten hands, moon on the crest, garlands of heads on the neck and also the ornament of serpents. He looked both Shankara and Gajanana. He told Shankara : "In future, when ever you will remember me, I will appear to remove obstacles. After chanting my Bîjâmantra, send an arrow on the aeroplanes of Tripurasur. By that time all these three cities will be burnt. Then you can kill Tripurasur". He also gave Sahasranam Stotra by chanting which one gets victory everywhere, enemies are destroyed and wishes are fulfilled. At that place, Shiva established a Ganesh Temple and around it a city called Manipur, which is presently called as Ranjangaon. The deity here is hence rightly called as Mahaganapati. Shankara went to fight. This time, Prithvi became the chariot, the Sun and Moon the wheels. Brahma Deva was the charioteer. Meru became the bow, Vishnu the arrow. Ashwinikumar become the horses. Shivshankara chanted the Ganesh Sahasranama. To destroy Tripurasura when he released arrow, there was light everywhere. Tripurasura fainted, fell down dead and his three cities were burnt. The demons life came out of his body in the form of Jyoti and entered Shiv Shankar's body. Thus, Gods got their posts and Sages started studying Vedas. All three worlds were happy.
The mûrti
Facing east, the mûrti is in the cross-legged sitting position with broad forehead and the trunk turned towards the left. Riddhi and Siddhi are on the both the sides of Mahaganapati. The god image taken out in procession on festivals is made of five metals.
The temple
Temple facing east has huge and beautiful entrance gate. Statues of two doorkeepers namely Jay and Vijay are present near the gateway. Nagarkhana is situated above the entrance gate. Main temple looks like temple from Peshwa's period. It is so constructed that sun rays fall directly on Shri Ganesha's image.
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Siddhatek lies in Karjat taluka (Ahmednagar district), on the banks of river Bhima. For going there, Daund is the
nearest railway station on Pune-Solapur railway line. Its at a distance of 96 kms from Pune. Transport buses
stop at Shirapur (1 km from Siddhatek only).
Wheat and Sugarcane grow in surrounding fields. Small houses, covered with grass, have mud-walls.
Siddhi Vinayak at Siddhatek is said to have come to the aid of Mahavishnu as he was engaged in a long battle with the demons Madhu and Kaitabha.
The legend
This story pertains to Treta Yuga. Once, Brahmadev performed penances of Shree Ganesh by chanting his bîjâ mantra with a desire to create world. Shree Ganesh was pleased and gave him boon. Lord Brahma created three classes namely Brahmins, Kshatriyas and Shudras from his arms and thighs, Moon from his heart, Sun from his eyes, Heaven from his head, Air and Life from his ear and Earth from his legs. After that, he created sea, rivers, trees, etc. When Lord Brahma was busy in creating world, Lord Vishnu was sleeping enjoying his Yoganidra. After a period of time, two demons, Madhu and Kaitabha, were created from the dirt in Vishnu's ear. They started harrassing Brahmadeva. On Brahma Deva's urge, Nidradevi left Vishnu so that he could wake up and destroy the demons. Vishnu started fighting but in vain. After years, Lord Vishnu stopped war and in the guise of Gandharva started singing Vîna. Lord Shankara on hearing it called Lord Vishnu and asked for the boon. Vishnu told Lord Shankara story of Madhu and Kaitabha and asked him to find a way out to kill the demons. Shankar told Lord Vishnu that he did not get victory because before starting the war he forgot to remember Gajanana (Ganesh). He gave Vishnu a six letter Ganesh Mantra and asked him to go to Siddhi Kshetra for meditation. Lord Vishnu built a big temple with four gates and consecrated there a Ganesha mûrti made up of stone from Gandaki river. The place is called Siddhatek as Shri Vishnu got his siddhi there and that Ganesha is called Siddhivinayak. Vinayaka being happy with his worship gave him capacity to destroy Madhu and Kaitabha.
The mûrti
The mûrti is Swayambhu, one meter tall, facing north with his trunk turned right. The mûrti is Gajamukha, however belly of the statue is not big. Riddhi and Siddhi are sitting on one lap of Vinayaka. Face is very calm and serene. The pradakshana of this God is said to be very fruitful. One has to travel 5 kms to complete one Pradakshana as the God is attached to the hill itself.
The temple
Shri Siddhivinayak's temple is on hill top facing north. Sanctum of the temple, which is five meters high and three meters broad was built by famous Queen Ahilyabai Holkar. The Swayambhu mûrti of Shri Siddhivinayaka is placed in brass frame. Brass statues of Jay and Vijay are placed on both sides of Siddhivinayaka. In the sanctum itself, there is a Shivapanchayatan and goddess Shivai's small temple. Hall of the temple was built by Baroda's landlord late Shri Mairal. It was collapsed in 1939 and later rebuilt by all Ganesh devotees in 1970.
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Located at about thirty km from Aurangabad (45 minutes drive), this site is deservedly considered as one of the compulsory visit in India. About thirty caves were excavated in the hard rock of the cliff during several centuries to welcome communities of monks, either Buddhist, either Hindu, either Jain. Therefore, these caves are grouped according to their style and the religion they belong to.
Oldest are the Buddhist Caves (1 to 12). They have been dated from 7th to 9th century, i.e. during
the Chalukya dynasty of Badami, at a distance farther (Karnataka). Caves 13 to 29 are Hindu and devoted to
the Shiva cult; they were dug between 7th and 10th century. Therefore, they are partly from the same period as
the Buddhist ones, but others were achieved later, under the Rashtrakuta rulers who, among others,
realized the magnificent Kailasha temple (also named Cave 16). Caves 30 to 34 came later, between 9th and 11th century,
under the Râshtrakûta
period. They
were devoted to the jain
cult.
A monastic activity lasted for several centuries after.
The cliff is north to south oriented, facing west. So, it's best to plan a visit in the afternoon to get more light in the caves. However, weather is often very hot.
The Buddhist Caves (1 to 12)
They are located at the southern part of the site. Most of them are vihara, i.e. small monasteries. They have
been lately excavated (till the 8th century) and were occuped by Buddhist monks belonging to the
Mahâyâna branch. There are often large in size and may have
two or even three levels. Decoration of the pillars has been nicely made and displays a broad range of floral designs.
One will also notice many bas-reliefs of the Buddha
, Boddhisatva
, the Goddess Tara
, etc.
The Shaiva Caves (13 to 29)
Being dedicated to Hindu gods, these caves are characterized, inter alia, by Ganesh representations and other deities.
The Cave 14 also called Ravana ki Khai, or Ravana
Cave. Ravana was a ten-headed demon who had kidnapped Sîtâ, the beloved wife of God Rama
.
The entrance of the sanctuary is guarded by two Dvârapâla
; the side walls are engraved in a serie of bas-reliefs,
as well as the backside wall, behind the main shrine (cella) .
On a frieze, the Seven Divine Mothers (Saptamâtrikâ ) are seated, a child on the lap; each of them is riding on her vehicle
(vâhana
),
The walls of the hall are adorned, on both sides, by large stone carvings. On the left side,
Durgâ has a foot standing on Her lion,
Gaja-Lakshmî and Her elephants,
Varâha bringing back Earth (Prithivi) from the Ocean bottom, Vishnu
and His wives. On the right side, Shiva is displayed
killing Andaka the demon; just nearby, Shiva and Pârvatî are sitting on Mount Kailash while
the demon Ravana is just trying to move; then comes a beautiful Nagâ, unfortunately damaged;
one can also look at Shiva and Pârvatî playing at dice and Durgâ killing the demon (the
Durgâ's lion is biting the buffalo).
One also notice Ganesh, Kâla 
and Kâlî
.
Ganesh, sitting in the ease posture, is holding its main emblem, the bowl of sweet, in His left hand; the same
emblem is drawn on the basis of the seat. A simple halo crowns His head, like each of the Mothers. This representation
has been designed during the second part of the 6th or 7th century.
The Cave 15 also called Dashavatara, or Avataras Cave,
a remembrance of the Ten Vishnu incarnations; it has been dated from the 8th century and is a two-storied cave.
Again, we can see Shiva and Pârvatî playing at dice, the Shiva and Pârvatî marriage,
Shiva giving help to His devotee Markandeya, a beautiful Sarasvatî , the Tripurantaka of Shiva, then
some Vishnu avatars : Krishna
raising Mount Govardhana, Vishnu riding on Garuda ,
Vishnu Trivikrama
running over the Worlds, then Narasimha
eviscerating Hiranyakashipu the demon.
In the sanctuary (cella) antichamber, one finds a two-armed Pârvatî
, Vishnu representations,
Ganesh, Kârtikeya
on His peacock, and the Trimûrti .
The Cave 17, although not completed, probably offers
the nicest (or the best preserved) of the Ellora Ganesh sculptures. This piece of art is
not usually quoted. Placed on the left wall of the veranda, this four-armed pot-bellied god is
sitting in the râjalilasana;
Just on the opposite wall, Durgâ, the Buffalo killing Goddess is also an excellent carving. Outside the cave, a
four-headed Brahmâ
is facing Vishnu.
The Cave 21 also called Rameshvara :
has a wonderful front side and splendent bas-reliefs adorn its walls. One will find again several known
themes such as the marriage of Shiva and Pârvatî (vaivâhika-mûrti), with a small young
Ganesh standing near the feet of the goddess, Ravana shaking Mount Kailash, Shiva et Pârvatî
playing at dice, ... On the wall behing the sanctuary, look at a damaged set of the Divine Mothers. This cave was excavated during
the second part of the 7th century.
The Cave 22, named Nîlakantha
. Representations of
Ganesh and His brother Kârtikeya have been carved on the left and right walls. Outside the cave,
a niche in the rock shelters a set of the Divine Mothers attended by Ganesh and Virabhadra.
The Cave 25 : a Ganesh
can be seen on the entrance wall, left side.
The group of the Ganesh caves are uninteresting.
The Cave 29 also named Dhumar Lena or Sîtâ
bath, is the last cave of the hindu group. One can see there an ascetic Shiva holding a club, called Shiva lakulisha,
the Shiva and Pârvatî marriage and a clumsy dancing Shiva. Two expressive lions stand on both sides of the
access stairs.
The Kailash temple (16) is a particular monument and must be considered apart. It's a gigantic sanctuary, entirely excavated from the rock. Nothing has been built, but cut... One can hardly imagine all the efforts needed to achieve such a huge work. Calculation has given the figure that about 2 00 000 cubic meters were extracted from the mountain, using only such hand tools as burins and hammers...
The Cave 16 or Kailash temple
or Kailâsanâtha is not really a cave.
It a such big and complex monument that it looks really difficult to describe it properly to give a fair idea of its
majestic aspect.
Several Ganesh images are located there :
In the entry gallery, on the left wall, a rather damaged representation
of Ganesh can be seen, near the Nandi
pavilion;
In a cave situated on the right side of the main yard; one has to climb a
steep flight of stairs to enter inside. There is a large bas-relief of the Saptamâtrikâ associated with
Ganesh;
In the mandapa of the main temple,
a small Ganesh image in a medalion is carved on a pillar;
At last, a recess on the back outside left side of
the mandapa, displays a beautiful Ganesh statue.
The Jain Caves (30 to 34)
Located in the northern part of the cliff, they should also be visited. The Jain monks who lived there belonged to the naked most ascetic Jain monks (called Digambara). Stone sculptures and carvings represent the Jain prophets (Tirthankara), for instance Gomateshvara, Mahavira and Parshvanath. And also other divine beings of the Hindu religion such as Yaksha (Spirits), Gandharva (Celestial Musicians).
Photos |
The Aurangabad city does not offer so many worthwhile places to visit. Its name has been given after Aurangzeb, the Moghol Ruler who lived there at a time when he was not yet an emperor, but the the military chief of the province. Here only two monuments must be noticed : the Bibi Ka Mukbara Mausoleum, the name of the Aurangzeb's first wife, and the Panchakki, mausoleum of a Saint Sufi (muslim), Baba Shah Muzzafar, located in a well-kept garden. Just nearby, there is also an old corn-mill.
However, a few kms farer, one may go and enjoy to visit Buddhist Caves. The eastern group is told to be most important :
The Cave 7, the firts to be encountered on the way,
seems to be the best. In the sanctuary, the tall sitting Buddha is
attended by two Boddhisatva
(what is usual in this kind of monk cave). The left wall is adorned with
a wonderful bas-relief of a dancing girl with musicians. Several Tara with thick thighs and ample breast guard the entrance. Also notice a Kubera
(Jambhala for Buddhists).
The Cave 8 has nothing to be viewed and climbing
the high stairs is useless.
In the Cave 6, the Buddha in the shrine,
attended by Boddhisatvas, is worshipped by devotees standing on knees, carved in the stone on His both sides.
Nearby, a small No-numbered Cave, discovered in 1961,
looks to be devoted to Hindu and Buddhist cults (second part of the
6th century) since Ganesh
can be seen with
the Divine Mothers , as well as with Buddha, which is
quite unusual.
One must take a car to go to the Western Group of caves, the oldest ones.
The Cave 3 is very interesting. In the sanctuary,
a beautiful big Buddha is standing, between two Boddhisatva. One again, knilling stone devotees
are listening to His speach. The Cave 4 is a vaulted chaitya
like the Cave 10 in Ellora but here smaller and unfinished.
Proceeding to the Cave 2, one will see there
some similar but less good statues. Near the Cave 1,
a bas-relief represents a set of Seven Budddhas.
Photos |
Holy city of Maharashtra, Nasik is a famous pilgrimage destination. The meeting point of all the visitors and pilgrims,
really the busiest place in Nasik, is the Ram Kund (Rama Pond), on the
banks of the Godavari River. A little farther, one will notice a huge statue of Hanuman
, named Dutondya Maruti. Very near,
a flight of stairs lead to the temple of Kapaleshvar, a form of Lord Shiva
. Destroyed by a fire in 1680, it was rebuilt in 1748. At the top of the stairs, a beautiful red Ganesh
is standing in a stone niche.
Not very far, the Bhakti Dham looks a singular temple : two big
statues in the upper part of the façade, one is Ganesh, the second is a many-armed Durgâ
(Her local name is Sapta Shrungi Devi); both surround
Sûrya on His chariot.
The Sîtâ cave (Sîtâ Gumpha) : very narrow steepy stairs,
and a low ceiling compel people to go downstairs quasi seated... A first small room contains the usual
trio : Râma , Sîtâ and Lakshmana; a second
cell, down, a Shiva Lingam with a small Nandi. One goes up again to the
ground level thanks to easier stairs. It is said that Sîtâ used to dwell in this cave, just before She
was kidnapped by Ravana .
The Kalaram temple (1778-1790) tries to be a replica of Nagara
styled temples surmounted by a curved shikhara
.
The temple has been erected at the centre of a large paved courtyard. Behind it, south-side, a small shrine shelters
Ganesh.
The Tapovan (from Tapas = meditation, ascetiscism and Van = forest) was a famous place where Sages used to meditate in ancient times, when the vast Dandakaranya forest encompassed the banks of the Godavari. Here, Lakshmana is said to have cut off the nose of Shurpanaka, Ravana's sister. She had fallen in love of Râma but was rejected and therefore, by revenge, requested Her brother to kidnap Sîtâ, the Râma' wife.
The Mukti Dham is a large right-angled building; in the gallery around, an impressive number of God and Goddess representations, with hindi captions, underline the teaching purpose of the exhibition. The eighteen chapters of the Bhagavad Gîtâ are also engraved on the walls. Replica of the twelve Jyotir Lingam of India are shown as well as a fair number of Gods and Goddesses.
The Ved Mandir (temple of Vedas) is a big modern conceived with cleverness. It is dedicated to the Divine Vedas. In the central part, the grand book of marble attends a tall statue of guru Gangeshvara. A smaller chapel, left side, shelters three marble statues of Rama, Sîtâ and Lakshmana; before them, Hanuman is bending. In another chapel, right side, is reproduced the Triambakeshvar Lingam. Nandi is facing the Lingam. In a niche of the wall, Ganesh is seated and looks at Nandi. A tiny tortoise (Kurma, a Vishnu avatar) is engraved on the soil before the main shrine.
Nearly ourside the city, on the Godavari banks, is located the temple of Naushya Ganesh. Most visitors are women. One can go inside the main shrine but shooting photos is forbidden. Before the temple entry, a short alley is bordered by sets of statues which represent, life size, the Ashta Vinayaka from the Poone region.
There are also eight more Ganesh shrines in Nasik but the Naushya Ganesh is by far the most famous one. Others are :
Dholya Ganapati (Dholia means chubby in Marathi);
it's the same word as Lambodara in Sanskrit). Dholia Ganapati is near Ashok Stambh
Siddhi Vinayaka (Raviwar Karanga)
is silver made; for that reason, He is also named Chandicha Ganapati
Modakeshvar, located at Asarachi Ves, on the
Godavari bank, downstream Ram Kund; He is in the modaka shape, the particular sweet that Ganesh is fond of.
In fact, Modakeshvar looks like a big round stone, vermilion-painted, implanted in the shrine ground
Tilya Ganapati qui aurait grossi à partir d'un grain de
sésame (Til = sésame)
Naushya Ganapati
Varad Vinayaka (récent, 1969), près du temple de
Ahilya Ram,
Khandave Ganapati (150 ans)
Icchamani Ganapati, temple en marbre blanc.
Outside Nasik, another kind of visit and atmosphere are the Pandulena Buddhist Caves. A long serie of stairs goes to the Caves level. These were excavated in the basalt cliff during the first centuries of our era to welcome buddhist monastic communities.
Another visit outside is to go to the famous Triambakeshvara temple, at a distance
of 30 km. It's a most important place, the abode of one of the holy Jyotir Lingam (Fire LIngam) in India.
The Lingam is a three-headed one who represents the three Gods of the Trimûrti
.
The large mandapa is a rounded hall
surmounted by a vast cupola.
On the way back to Nasik, one may stop at Anjaneri to worship Hanuman
(Anjani or Anjaneya are other names for Hanuman, since Anjani Suta means son of Anjaneri Mata). A large beautiful red
statue, the meditation posture, stands under a stone pavilion at the top of a hillock.
His face is full of calmness and the place is really peaceful.
Photos |
By train, one can go from Mumbay to Pune within four hours. The city, situated on a plateau at an altitude of 800 meters a.s.l., where the climate is mild, is quickly developing. The place is mainly known by foreigners for the Osho (formerly (Shri Rajnesh) Ashram, a famous guru in the 70s. The guru has left his body, but his teachings, said to be tantric", are still attracting westerners...
Other reasons may be found to come here. The architecture of the temples is not so famous but Lord Ganesh is the protector of the city and temples devoted to Him are scattered here and there. Not so easy to find...
The most famous Ganesh temple, where everybody is willing to get the darshan, is the Dagduseth Ganapati temple. The mûrti is a large and beautiful Ganesh whose trunk, left-side turned, displays a particular double twist. One will discover another stunning Ganesh in the Kasaba Ganapati temple , in the small street near the Shaniwar Wada fort. This Ganesh is made of a big rock; one bended forward side looks like a flat face. He is endowed with two piercing eyes surmounted by painted eyebrows. The mouth is painted too. This Ganapati wears necklaces made of flowers; other flowers are put here and there on His body.
One can also notice a Ganesh on the way to the Chatushringi temple, another, made of white marble, is located in a small temple in the midst of the Saras Bagh public garden, another more in the Pimpri suburb, Vishnu Devi temple.
One cannot forget to mention the Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum (entrance fee 150 Rs). It's a quite interesting museum, mostly dedicated to folk arts and handicrafts. The section of the Ganesh statues is really wonderful; we will quote (photos are not allowed) several excellent items :
Ganesh with crossed legs, sitting on a howdah (nacelle usually placed on
an elephant back) placed on a giant mouse back of which hands are joined in a prayer posture
Nice tall Ganesh sitting on an elephant back
Two brass Ganesh, found in Sayam (19th century); they show big bellies, and their
head top is curiously flattened
Perfect small 18-armed Ganesh, a rarest piece dated from the 17th century, attended
by His two Shakti, Riddhi and Siddhi (Maharastra)
Unusual Ganesh Deep, i.e. Ganesh holding the oil lamp
used for pujas, 18th century, South India
Ganesh riding a horse made of wood and clay, coming from Sawantwadi (Maharastra),
18th century
Pretty group, all made of wood, of Shiva, Pârvatî and Ganesh,
from the same place, 19th century
A large pleasant Gundacha Ganapati, covered with sindur, 20th century.
If possible, when going to the Saras Bagh garden, mentionned above, one will visit there a small unassuming museum (entrance fee 2 Rs) which displays the collection of a Ganesh amateur. Some pieces are really worth-while.
Pune is also the central point from where one may organize the pilgrimage to the eight Ganesh temples, the Ashta Vinayaka.
Moreover, tours are recommended to the following places :
Mahabaleshwar is a hilly resort (elevation
1400 m a.s.l.) on the western Ghats. A pleasant climat and fantastic views on mountains around attract a lot of people. In
the Old Mahabaleshwar, several temples are : the Panchganga Mandir where two red
Ganesh statues dwell in a small shrine, the Shiva temple and a temple
where a Swayambhu Lingam, roughly shaped, is daily worshipped. This lingam is attended, on
both sides, by wonderful 20 cm tall statues in golden bronze : on the right side, Shiva and Pârvatî,
on the left side, Ganesh whose head is surmounted by a canopy of Nagas.
Between Pune and Mahabaleshwar, two places can be mentionned :
the first one is a recent Sri Balaji temple, named in praise of the Sri Balaji Tirupati
temple, Andhra Pradesh. The excellent welcome, extreme cleanliness, and interesting god statues (Sudarshan Chakra,
the personified Vishnu weapon, Krishna with the flute, Gaudamata, Lakshmî, etc.) are unusual.
The second stop in the Way township, on the banks of the Krishna River, permits
to see several temples on and near the river ghats. The Ganesh temple distinguishes itself by a tall red sitting Ganesh
mûrti. Just opposite, in a precinct closed by walls, is located a Shiva temple. Two big deep-mala
(stone pole with oil lamps) stand in the courtyard. A wonderful Nandi faces the main temple gate surrounded
by Ganesh on the left and Hanuman on the right. In the inner shrine, the Shiva Lingam stands in the yoni.
A little bit farer on the ghat, another smaller Shiva temple shelters Ganesh associated with
goddess Lakshmî.
Lastly, toward north, one can go from Pune to Bhimashankar where
one of the twelve Jyotir Lingams (Lingam of Fire) of India is worshipped. Ganesh can be seen here also.
Photos |
The Gate of India is a kind of Triumph Ark
built in 1911 to welcome the Bristish Sovereigns who came here in official visit; it is located
just near the pier where boats to Elephanta start.
Facing the Gate of India, the luxury Taj Mahal Hotel
is worldwide renowned. In the neighbour Colaba quarter, a lot of attractive shops display
their products.
Non very far, the Prince of Wales Museum
is worthwhile to visit : a large selection of wonderful statues of different epochs, Gandhara and others,
delicate Rajasthani miniature paintings, a gorgeous set of golden nepalese and tibetan statues of gods, sometimes older
than 1000 years, tibetan thangka paintings...
Another hall exhibits prehistoric items from Mohenjo-Daro. Seals made of steatite stone (original ones ?), used at
that time by merchants, are nicely and delicately engraved with animals and the famous horned god seated in the lotus
position who has been recognized by specialists as an ancient form of God Shiva
. Another hall shows gold and silver jewels. There are Minakari enamels, bidri pots (inlaid work of silver wire in dark
metal) and wonderful white jade works carved by indian artists during the Moghol period in a raw material imported from
China. In another hall, an exhibition explains the making of statues according to the lost wax technique : some statues
illustrate the result (two beautiful baby Krishnâ
, holding the butter
ball, and a curious Ganesh
from Chamba).
Sightseeing the city centre permits to discover the Victoria Central Station, a british-style monument dated from the 19th century. Some other buildings of the same period are gathered in the city centre.
One may follow Marine Drive along the seaside till Malabar Hill , to public gardens named Hanging gardens, near the Tours of Silence belonging to the Parsi community.
Near those gardens, the Walkeshvar temple can be reached by a narrow
busy street, going down to the sea side. Nearby, the Bangangâ Pond is
lined by ghats and tiny temples. The origin of this place is narrated in a myth. God Râma
, on the way to
Lanka to fight king Ravana
, is supposed to have stopped here to take a rest. He sent an arrow to the lower infernal worlds to liberate
Bhogavati, the underground Gangâ
who had been made prisoner and known as Bangangâ. Everyday, Râma used to worship a
Shiva Lingam
especially brought by His brother Lakshmana from Kashi (Varanasi) at morning time. One day, Lakshmana got late;
since He could not delay the pûjâ time, Rama made a Lingam with sand. The name Walkeshvar of the temple means
"God of sand" (Waluka Ishvar). The present pond dates from the epoch of the Silahara dynasty (810 to 1250)
and was renovated later, during the Yadava rule.
A little farther, a narrow shrine shelters a beautiful white marble Ganesh.
To the north, a few km away, the Mahalakshmî temple looks a modern one. Various
painted marble statues are in different shrines, from left to right :
Rama and Sîtâ, Ganesh, Mahalakshmî
, Hanuman
, dark-colored Krishna, Krishna playing flute. Before Mahalakshmî, in the chapel, is placed a
Lingam surmounted by cobras preceded by Nandi
and Kurma,
the Tortoise, a Vishnu
avatar.
Fideles in contemplative mood, come and leave.
The Victoria Garden is normally the place where one may visit the Victoria and Albert Museum. But it is closed, under renovation from june 2003, and the duration of the works remains unknown...
It is strongly advised to spend half a day to go and visit the Elephanta Island Caves;
the boat departure place is near the Gate of India. Caves there have been dug in the mountain to form a huge Shiva temple.
The main one is very large and looks to be "sustained" by biggest columns, fluted till half height then following to
the top as bulbs.
Small figures (Ganesh, Gana ) decorate their angles.
Shiva Natarâja, the Master of Cosmic Dance, Shiva Yogeshvara, the Master of Meditation, give a good idea of the
grandiose craftsmanship. However, these master pieces of art have been badly damaged. On the right side, in a
wall recess, an awful Bhairava
, holding a sword,
has just exterminated the demon Andaka.
In the central sanctuary is standing a Shiva Lingam; doors are guarded by very tall (4,50 m high) Dvârapâla
... A few meters away, one can see the famous scene of
Kalyana Sundara Mûrti (Marriage of Shiva and Pârvatî
). Hands of the divinities are unfortunately broken but their faces are full of majesty. Behind the bride,
is standing a powerful Himavan, Her father. By the side, a delicate Chandra
offers the vase of ambrosia (Amrita
).
Most of these stone scenes show various characters in the upper part : Brahmâ
flying in the air attended by His gooses, Indra
on His elephant Airavata, Vishnu on the eagle Garuda
, sometimes Ganesh and, of course, Gandharva
, the
celestial musicians.
Then, one goes before the Master carving of this Cave-temple, the impressive Trimûrti
representation.
Morning light is best to enjoy the wonderful atmosphere of this incredible setting.
The three faces of the God respectively represent Brahmâ, the Lord of Creation, Vishnu, the Lord of
Maintenance of the Manifested World and Shiva as the fierce Bhairava, the Lord of Destruction.
On His right, another sculpted panel shows Shiva Gangâdhara; the tiny three-face Goddess nestles
in Shiva's hair. One feels that Pârvatî, the Shiva's wife, standing aside, is badly affected. A little
farther, on the left, Ardhanarishvara
the half male - half female form of Shiva, is a matter amazement for the foreign visitors.
To reach the Eastern courtyard, one passes in front of two other damaged reliefs : first, Shiva playing at dice
with Pârvatî on Mount Kailash
, their celestial Abode.
The second shows the Demon Ravana shaking the Mount Kailash.
The Eastern courtyard gives access to another cave of which pillars are not decorated. In the central sanctuary is a Shiva Lingam, guarded by two tall Dvârapâla; a corridor permits to make the pradakshina. On the right side, a set of the Seven Divine Mothers is attended by Ganesh. On the side wall, another big Ganesh could be nice if not damaged.
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